small portions, big flavor: kimika nyc
One of the perks of being back in the city for university has definitely been the food. So when my birthday rolled around, naturally, I took advantage of this fact, and made a reservation at kimika, a Japanese-Italian restaurant that has been getting some pretty rave reviews recently. First off, keep in mind, while their outdoor dining set up is pretty solid, the heaters are definitely super toasty, so bundle up if you’re sitting outside.
To start, we ordered some drinks., which were very pretty and very expensive.
To start, we ordered a spread of appetizers, and while the waitress warned us to order a decent amount of food, she really did not prepare us for just how small these plates truly are. For example, to start, we ordered the tuna tartare, with crispy rice, salmon roe, spicy mayo, and seaweed. Almost reflexively, when the waiter brought it over, I commented on how small it was. The four of us could get one and a half bites per person. And this ended up being a common theme with many of the dishes.
However, the tartare itself was extremely good. The one bit I was able to get was absolutely bursting with flavors and textures, from the spicy, creamy, rich tuna to the briny, salty salmon roe that pops in your mouth to the crunchy crispy rice.
Next, we got a pizzette fritte with dipalo’s burrata and marinated tomatoes. The pizzette actually kind of reminded me of the dough of a scallion pancake, only thinner, but just as flaky and tender. The pizzette went contrasted very well with they flavorful, acidic marinated tomatoes and the super creamy and rich pizzette. Again, extremely delicious dish, I just wished I had could afford more than one piece.
At last, it was time for the main attractions. We ordered the crispy rice cake lasagna with sweet Italian sausage, spicy cabbage, scallions, and provolone, soy butter bigoli, and the “broccoli broccoli broccoli broccoli,” wit hbroccoli rabe, furikake, and dry aged beef fat. As you can see, an extremely aesthetic spread, but also, objects appear smaller up close.
The rice cake lasagna was so so good. I’m always a little hesitant about fusion foods, but this was really good. The slightly spicy sauce, crisp and gooey cheese, and the soft rice cakes, and the slightly greasy sauce made it perfect for a cold day. Honestly, like the food version of a comforting, warm hug. Amazing.
The broccoli broccoli broccoli broccoli was very crisp and again, and the beef fat, while an unusual ingredient, definitely made even this side dish full of savory flavor, albeit not suitable for vegetarians.
The soy butter bigoli was also super good, albeit a little on the saltier side. Again, a surprisingly logical melding of Japanese and Italian flavors. It reminded me of a chewier, thicker version of one of my favorite dishes, longevity noodles.
At that point, one of my friends got the rose colored glasses spritzer, which , I tried a sip of and was extremely tasty, as it tasted just like rose soda, and I am a sucker for floral-flavored things.
Since it was my birthday, we had to get some dessert, obviously. We ordered the tiramisu baked Alaska, and their Yakult soft serve, complete with a kimchi (?!) caramel, and a concord grape sauce.
I was not super sure how to to feel about this soft serve. The kimchi caramel was…confusing. It made the soft serve seem as a whole more savory than sweet, which was surprising for a dessert. The carmelized, gentle sweetness and the spicy, slightly oily kimchi flavor was definitely unique, and I think it mostly worked, although the kimchi brought out the sourness of the yakult. Needless to say, the kimchi caramel stayed pretty true to its name.
My favorite of the two was definitely the baked Alaska, although I might be biased, considering one of my favorite desserts is a well executed baked Alaska. The thick, sugary meringue, the crispy croissant crunchies, the light, gently flavored coffee chiffon cake and the creamy marscapone ice cream all came together really well. Kimika as a whole is extremely good at taking creating dishes that are a lovely symphony of flavors and textures and influences, and I think the tiramisu baked Alaska really encapsulates that. It was a truly creative re-imagination of two classic desserts, and my only complaint was that the ice cream was a little hard when it first came out.
And then, because my friends told our waitress it was my birthday, they sent over a complimentary birthday shot of their homemade limoncello! A great way to end a great meal.
Ultimately, I would completely recommend Kimika, although not as much if you’re paying. Its portion sizes and cool yet laid-back atmosphere, make a perfect date night or special occasion spot. All in all, if you come with an open mind and an open wallet, you won’t leave disappointed.